Monday, January 31, 2011

Clos de l'Echo Couly-Dutheil 1982

This wine was $100 for a magnum at K&L. Yesterday was my birthday, and since I'm guessing that wines from 1982 are only going to get more rare as I get more old, I decided to seize the day. It helped that I love Chinon too. This wine was comparatively cheap compared to any Bordeaux from 1982 that K&L stocks. Although this wine wasn't as good as the 82 Chateau Margaux Pavillon Rouge that Sarah got me a couple of years ago, or the port from 1982 that I had with my parents last Christmas, this wine was still pretty great. An asinine comparison, probably, since this is Chinon and not Bordeaux, but oh well. I've had this wine one other time, but it was from the freakshow 2003 vintage. I believe that the wine I had was the Crescendo though, which is a little different thing then the Clos de l'Echo, since it's a more severe selection from the vineyard. The Crescendo was first made in 1995 though, so I guess there's no equivalent. Wine Doctor has more info and insight than I could ever muster here. 

I'm surprised at how well both of the magnums of 20+ year old Loire Cab Franc I've had have fared. I think that I actually liked the 89 Taluau better than this wine by a hair. This wine is/was more mainstream and far less esoteric than the Taluau. This means that I'll be on the lookout for more older Chinon's in a magnum format. They clearly can age, and are clearly interesting older wines. Plus, they're about a quarter of the price of cheap 82 Bordeaux (I am always on the lookout for a good deal). It's really too bad that Bordeaux is so expensive now; more or less, I'm priced out of the market. I would love to have a iconic First Growth from 1982, but I don't know that I am willing to pay north of $1000 a bottle just for that experience. Maybe for 30 next year? We'll see.   

I'm quite thankful this wasn't corked! Pulled the cork out--what an old looking cork. It's kind of fun that it even has 1982 printed on it. Immediately apparent that this is Chinon. At first quite shy, with herbaceous, tomatoey aromas. As the wine opens up, it reveals more cherry, blackberry character, as well as some leafy, peppery aromas. Very typical Cab Franc. 29 years has been kind to this wine, as the tannins have fully resolved and left behind a wine that is silky smooth, but still has lots of grip, presence, and balance. Pretty trippy for me personally to drink a wine that is as old as I am, and a fun experience. K&L has a few more of these available; I don't know that I will grab another bottle; it's a fun wine to drink though, and if you're a 1982 baby like me, it's a lot cheaper than Bordeaux. Sarah and I cooked dinner and had our friends Ricky and Diana over--deconstructed rack of lamb (I like to buy racks of lamb and cut off the tenderloin and roast the ribs separately because they always have so much fat. If you don't separate them, you're left with fatty ribs and perfect tenderloin, or dried out tenderloin and perfect ribs. Cooking them separately allows you to cook both of them perfectly.), with a cauliflower saffron sauce, roasted Weiser Farms Romanesco cauliflower, and Weiser Farms peewee heirloom potatoes from me, while Sarah made a beet salad with avocados, pistachios, and oranges (awesome...we jacked that idea from Gjelina restaurant in Venice Beach), and she also made me a peach pie. It was quite the pie: Sarah made a real old school pie crust from scratch with just butter, flour and salt. I'm sure it took a while, but it tasted awesome. Diana brought some chocolate chip cookies that were awesome too. Allow me to indulge my inner chick for a second: I feel fat today. Haha. 

Sunday, January 30, 2011

Cuvee Granit Domaine de la Pepiere 2008

Picked this up at K&L on the recommendation of one of their staff members. Imported by Louis/Dressner, which is as much a mark of quality as Kermit Lynch or Thierry Thiese. This wine rules. Seriously, go out and grab every bottle that you can. This wine is also a great example of why you should go to a kick-ass wine store (like K&L), ask a few questions, and get the staff to tell you what they think is good based on what you like. There's no way that I would have picked out this wine on my own probably. $14. Domaine de la Pepiere and (Marc Olivier) is much more well known for Muscadet. There's a great post about the Domaine here, that has far more info and insight than I could ever come up with. Doesn't Marc Olivier seems like a dude that you'd want to have lunch and hang out with or something? He looks like a slightly mad genius to me. 

Apparently, you aren't allowed to label red wines grown in Muscadet as Muscadet, hence the Vin de Pays designation. This wine is a blend of 50% Cab Franc, 20% Cot (or Malbec), 20% Merlot, and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Apparently, you can buy bottles of this wine at the Domaine for 4 Euro, or about $5, which is insane. The Cab Franc is apparent--lots of leafy violets, as well as sour, wild cherries. Lots of minerality too. Tons of acidity; this is an awesome food wine (but certainly holds its own by itself). If I have a complaint about this wine, it's maybe that the finish is a little bit short, but I sure wish that I had purchased about 12 more bottles of this. I enjoyed it a lot. A

90 Plus Cellars Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 2008

$13 at the LA Wine Company. 90 Plus Cellars is in the same vein as the Castle Rock's and Cameron Hughes of the world, meaning they source wines that are good deals. Aside from the fact that their name more or less makes me squirm for a couple of reasons (really, you've got to hand it to them for implicitly selling every wine with points, even if it doesn't have the "actual" points), if this wine is an indication of what they typically can source, they're something to look out for. Apparently there is some speculation that this particular wine actually comes from Domaine Drouhin. At $13, that's a pretty damn good deal. It would make sense, since 2008 was apparently a benchmark year for Oregon--that would probably mean there is a lot of surplus wine out there that is quite good. Lots of cherry, along with almost smokey, earthy pinot funk. Lots of presence, balance, nuance, and a long, lightly creamy cherry finish. This is really quite good, and definitely has the structure to age as well. A-

Dr. Pauly Bergweiler Noble House Riesling

This was $9 at the LA Wine Company. I've been on a slightly sweet riesling kick recently for some reason. I kind of like how low in alcohol they are because you can drink more wine and not feel rotten the next day. Plus, they happen to go well with spicy stuff, and I've been having a bit of a spicy food renaissance lately. For a while, I couldn't eat anything spicy, but lately, it's been all I'm craving. I drank this with huevos rancheros, which was a pretty good pairing. Lots of stone fruits--peaches and apricots, along with the smell that you get right before a thunderstorm, which is really something along the lines of "wet rocks." I didn't like this wine quite as much as the Darting that we had a couple of nights ago--probably because this wine is a little bit more on the stone fruit side and not citrus--and I didn't think that it was quite as focused. B+

Friday, January 28, 2011

Cantina Colosi Nero d'Avola 2009

Grabbed this at Costco for $11 because I was surprised to see a Nero D'Avola. On the riper side of things for a Nero d'Avola (at least compared to some of the Nero d'Avola's that I've had from Gulfi. I guess it's just as modern as Planeta). Cherry, light spice, coffee, and chocolate. Bordering on jammy, with a tart cherry chocolate finish. Pretty good, but at the same time, not terribly exciting either. B- 

Wednesday, January 26, 2011

Darting Kabinett Riesling (Pfalz) 2009

Picked this up for $14 for a whole liter at LA Wine Company. Imported by Thierry Thiese/Michael Skurnik. Thierry Thiese/Michael Sturnik are in the same boat for me as Kermit Lynch. Rarely anything bad. 9.5% alcohol and slightly off-dry. The perfect thing to have with Mexican food--hence its' presence in my fridge. In comparison to the Octavin Riesling from a couple of days ago, this looks very similar--at least on paper. However, there is a large difference between the two wines. Mainly, this wine is not as sweet, has better balance, and is more savory. Of course, it's also nearly twice as expensive. I can't deny liking this wine a whole lot more overall. Limes, stone, ginger, and a little chalk before lots of pears and green apples. Lots of snap, great balance, and not too sweet (although this definitely is sweet). Works really well with Mexican food. (When was the last time you heard that of a wine?) There is a part of me that finds it hilarious that Germans make wines like this. My perception of Germans is that they are ruthlessly efficient. I can't really imagine Angela Merkel drinking a wine like this. Somehow, I can only imagine her drinking something a hell of a lot more manly--like a dunkel or stout. This wine seems delicate and yet strangely tacky. Actually, maybe it isn't that weird that they make wines like this. It seems strangely fitting. They do wear lederhosen and tacky, strange outfits in public. You have to admit, Octoberfest is a pretty interesting spectacle (and one that I need to go see)...B+/A-

Tuesday, January 25, 2011

"Indian Wells" Merlot Chateau Ste. Michelle 2008

This was about 11$ at Costco, although it's available a lot of other places. This wine was a "punt," because the bottle of Brouilly from Lapalu that I opened was lightly carbonated. I've had it a few times before, including over Christmas this year. That's why I picked up a bottle--because it was pretty good. Blackberries, gingerbread, coffee and soy sauce. Lush and ripe, with some tannins sneaking in on the end of the long finish. Although I don't always like fruit bombs, I do enjoy them, provided that they are 1. inexpensive (ie not $50 for shitty Napa Cab), and 2. they maintain their balance and don't become oaky caracitures of real wine. This is definitely a fruit bomb, but one that is tastefully done, cheap, and manages to not become over-extracted or bulky, but in fact, retains its' balance. Well worth picking up for the price and availability, I think. A- 

Monday, January 24, 2011

Chiroubles Domaine Cheysson 2009

I picked this up at the LA Wine Company for $16. It's also available at K&L for a couple of dollars more. I'm slowly working my way through the different Cru Beaujolais--there are 10 in total (I've had Fleurie, Morgon, Bruilly, and Moulin-a-Vent). Up until relatively recently (say maybe about a year or two ago), my entire perception of Beaujolais was based off of a couple bottles of Georges Dubuoef that I had as a real neophyte wine-drinker. Frankly, I just didn't get it. So it was a nice revelation to realize that there is Beaujolais that is far different and more serious than the Nouveau. The bottle that set me off was a bottle of Marcel La Pierre Morgon--a 2007--that was recommended by someone at K&L. Eye-opening. This is the first Chiroubles that I've had; actually, probably the first that I've seen. According to the Oxford Companion to Wine, Chiroubles is the highest village in Beaujolais and is home to the most typical Beaujolais (or so they say...). Jancis Robinson also says in the brief entry on Chiroubles that Domaine Cheysson is one of the most dependable estates. 

I particularly enjoyed this wine in a way that I haven't enjoyed the other Beaujolais that I've had from 2009 (admittedly, not too many; I need to try more). This wine was much more elegant with beautiful high-toned raspberry and floral characteristics. The raspberries are almost a little candied. There is also somewhat earthy-ish type of component; the tasting note I read says tea, and I think that is a very accurate description. Elegant, poised, fresh and crunchy, with superb balance and a mineral character to the finish. I really dug this wine; it was awesome. A


Sunday, January 23, 2011

Rudolf Muller Riesling (Bunny Riesling) 2009

I got this wine as a sample; it should retail for around $20 in the Octavin. You can buy normal bottles of this wine at Whole Foods for around $8 I think. This wine has a fair amount of residual sugar and 9.5% alcohol, and as a result, is pretty sweet.  Lots of pear and apple aromas, as well as a stone component to the finish. In some ways, this wine is sort of the perfect wine to have in an Octavin. At least for me, I have a hard time drinking more than a small glass of wine this sweet on a regular basis. But on certain occasions, say when you need something to drink with something spicy, it would be nice to have this in the fridge. This wine represents a good value, although I do think that there is relatively limited utility because of how sweet it is. If you like sweet wines though, it's well worth a look. B

Also--I always try the Cotes du Rhones that TJ's has around $5 each vintage. Normally, there is at least one wine out of the four or five that they carry that is worth drinking multiple times. Probably because they don't ever have their own label on these wines, they somehow manage to actually be good values and not fucked up. Anyways, the 2009 crop of these wines is particularly good. The Caves des Papes (made by Ogier; for what it's worth, the Wine Doctor likes Ogier) at $5 is solid, delicious and drinkable. At a couple bucks more, the Vidal-Fleury has a little bit more wallop and is a little bit more focused. The Perrin, which I have talked up ad nauseum for at least 4 years now, is also just a step up from the Ogier, but actually not quite as good as the Vidal-Fleury this year.  That 2009 is so solid is interesting to me. 2007 was obviously a pretty good year for Cotes du Rhone, but the wines from 2007 were no where near as good as the 2009's. The 2009's have another level of focus, balance, and intensity than the 2007's, or even the 2005's. Anyways, for a good cheap bottle of wine, I don't think that you can go wrong with any of those three bottles. I haven't had the Cellier du Rhone (and probably won't) as it's reliably the worst Cotes du Rhone TJ's carries and it's the same price as the Ogier. I haven't seen the Valreas yet; that's the wild card wine of the bunch. By the way TJ's--it would do you some good to get a couple more different Cotes du Rhone instead of these stalwarts. I'm getting a little bored, and I know that there are some great values out there.  

Friday, January 21, 2011

Santa Cristina Antinori Chianti Superiore 2008

Picked this up for $9 at Costco because, well, the last time I had "red-sauced" Italian, I really wanted the acidic snap of a Chianti. Unfortunately for me, this wine is a large departure from that. Can anyone say oak? Or how about Parker? Mildly put, this wasn't what I was expecting or wanted. It should go with out saying for all wine: caveat emptor. Of course, I really don't listen to my own advice: I tend to be an impulse driven buyer. If something looks interesting or like it might be a good deal, I'm in. 

Tons of oak. Spicy (coriander-ish?), along with some herbal (rosemary) and subdued cherry. Smooth, soft, and not a lot of acidity--although this isn't out of whack in terms of balance. It's out of whack in terms of what I look for in Chianti. Not that Chianti-esque, and way too much oak. This is Chianti made for the Parker palate. Your results with this wine may differ. If you for some reason have a bottle of this, I would suggest letting it sit for a year or two and hopefully the oak influence will turn less oaky and develop tertiary aromas that are interesting. D+/C-

Monday, January 17, 2011

Trader Joes Reserve Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2007

Picked this up on a recommendation from Matt's site, The main problem with Trader Joes is that they have a surfeit of shitty wines and very few good ones. If you're like me, you quickly get bored drinking the same bottle of wine. It is quite rare indeed when I drink more than three bottles of any one particular wine, even when the wine is awesome. More often than not, I drink one bottle of something unless I am absurdly enthused. In other words, if I ever talk about a wine more than one time--it means that I am really a fan. What this means is that I also quickly run out of things that look interesting to me at Trader Joes--I sort of know by now what might be good and what is going to be awful. The last couple of Trader Joes branded wines that I have had aren't that great. Think about why that might be too: if you have good shit, aren't you going to sell it somewhere besides into a private label? I know that I would. Shit, there are a lot of places where you can get a pretty good price for your surplus stuff. I'm thinking Castle Rock, Cameron Hughes, your own second label, second labels of your friends...Trader Joes has to be one of the last places that you would want your wine to go in a private label. 

Normally, I would throw this wine into the awful camp, but I took a chance on it at $9.99 due to the recommendation. I have to say that I am not a fan of this wine. Currants, black cherries, a little raisined, and full of vanilla notes. Juicy and chocolate-y with more vanilla and raisin character on the somewhat lackluster finish. Sarah thought that it smelled like bananas, and I think she's not that far off. (Commercial yeast anyone? Georges Dubouef?? Could Trader Joes really be churning out the California equivalent of Beaujolais Nuveau?) You could do way worse than this wine though; that's what's fucking scary about it. C- 

Friday, January 14, 2011

Benefactor Cellars Mendocino County Red Wine 2009

I think this wine makes it official that I am in a rut. I'm getting lazy. Really, I'm a little horrified with myself that I'm buying ridiculous spoof labels from Trader Joes instead of like, you know, real wine. Which I could be buying. I've just been lazy, and truth be told, not drinking that much. So there you have it: I am lame. What's funny is how quickly you become accustomed to drinking stuff that is in reality, mediocre--quickly. I now know why it's so easy to slip into the warm embrace of something as unbecoming as Kendall Jackson Chardonnay night after night. If you're used to it, it just doesn't seem that bad. Goes the other way too. If you drink nothing but Cristal every night, you're going to be pretty non-plussed when someone switches it up with Dom Perignon (oh look at that, snobby wine dude talk!). Anyways...I need to stop being lazy, because this shit just doesn't satisfy me like a good Chinon.(I should note here when I grade a wine, it's all relative. A decent bottle of shitty wine is likely to garner an A for effort as opposed to a C for not being as good as Baudry. They are different things.)

You owe yourself to check out Blood Into Wine, which is a documentary about Maynard from Tool actually making wine in Arizona. Seriously cool stuff. I've heard that the wine is actually really good; I just haven't gotten off my lazy ass and procured one of the many different wines they are making at Caduceus or Arizona Stronghold. You can stream the documentary on Netflix; it's a little campy in places, but definitely worth viewing. I find growing wine in Arizona as intriguing as Tool, although they're separate enterprises and should be treated as such. Anyways, I will be getting some of these wines. I want to taste them now and am very intrigued.

This is $5; if a benefactor gave me a bottle of this I might shrug and say, "Gee, thanks." I wouldn't be all that excited about it. The label is sort of tacky...arrggh..."Yo Ho Ho and a bottle of rum, maties." What? Isn't this wine? Who the fuck are you, Cap'n Morgan? It doesn't even tell you what grapes it's made out of. My guess is it's a kitchen sink blend of whatever was sitting around. Or maybe this is another Castle Rock type of wine, born of surplus wine? Who knows. What I do know is that this is plush and fruity, with raspberry and mint accents behind the silky coffee flavors. It's actually quite good, especially for $5. A little creaminess on the back end along with a vanilla finish and actually enough acid to balance it all out. Despite all of my shit talking and wanting to trash this wine, I actually think it's pretty good. Probably by the time it gets to year two, it will suck. Just guessing... B+/A-

Thursday, January 13, 2011

VINTJS Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 2009

9$ at Trader Joes. This wine is also a Wine by Joe wine, just like the Pinot Gris. The Pinot Gris is definitely a better deal, although this wine isn't that bad. Cherry coke, vanilla and raspberry on the nose, before cranberries and just a hint of earthiness on the back end. Fat and plump, yet strangely thin in the mid-palate and a little unfocused. I don't know that I would by this again, because I think that there are some other Pinot options out there for around the same price that perform better. Still, really not that bad. C+/B-

Sunday, January 9, 2011

Merryvale Starmont Chardonnay Napa Valley 2008

I got this as a gift from a vendor too. Retails for about $20. Surprisingly good...apricots, pears, vanilla, butterscotch, a lot of toast and tinges of stone and lemon. Well balanced, although there is a lot of oak influence. I don't know that I would ever buy this, because there are Chardonnays that I much prefer that are way cheaper. B

Thursday, January 6, 2011

Hermann J. Wiemer

A couple days after Christmas, I went out to visit my fiance's family in Rochester...which was, well, cold. Growing up in Seattle, you'd think that I'd have a natural, built in resistance to the cold (or at least the rain), but I seem to have lost it all living in Los Angeles for close to five years. There was a time when I thought that anything over about 60 degrees was "shorts weather." Not so now. Anyways, it was miserably cold--not even getting above freezing except for the last day there. 

I was pretty stoked despite the cold weather to get out to the Finger Lakes and visit a few wineries, and Sarah's sister and brother in law were nice enough to drive us out there. I'm not going to name names, but out of the three wineries that we visited, two of them had pretty bad wines. Let's just say that I'm not a big fan of American grape clones or vitis lambrusca just in general...all that talk about the grapes being "foxy" isn't in a good way. The Finger Lakes were fun to visit though--the Finger Lakes are beautiful. I like how rural they are. All sorts of barns, farm houses and wide open spaces. The one winery that we went to that was awesome was Hermann J. Wiemer. This happens to be the only New York Winery that I was able to track down wine from in California easily. I would imagine this is because they are the one New York winery that seems to be critically acclaimed, with a Riesling making the Wine Spectator Top 100 this year. 

The winery is in an old barn; the winery itself had its' first vintage in 1979. We went towards the end of the day, so they were starting to be out of some wines to taste. That means that they just switched to the reserve wines instead. I probably would have tasted those anyways though...unlike other wine regions I've been to, tastes are generally $2 for five wines. In other words, cheap. In Napa, you might get to taste 3 wines for $15...The Rieslings are the star here, although I did enjoy their Gewurztraminer for how floral it was. My favorite Riesling happened to not be the single vineyard Clos Magdalena, but the cheaper Dry Riesling Reserve. They told me that this wine is actually 85% from the Magdalena vineyard, but whatever else they blended in made it just a little bit more interesting. It had more punch, more acidity, and a lot more presence. The Semi-Dry Riesling was also pretty good, although let's face it, 5.4% residual sugar is a lot...clearly this is a wine meant to be consumed with something absurdly rich like foie gras. 

We also tasted the Pinot Noir, and the Pinot Noir Reserve both of which were green and stemmy. The reserve was preferable, although you can certainly get much better deals if you're going to spend $30 on a bottle of Pinot from somewhere else. Perhaps the climate is a little bit too cold for Pinot? That would be my thought. The Cab Francs fared better. The 08 Cab Franc Reserve was rich and ripe, and seemed to be occupying it's own stylistic territory. It was riper than Chinon or Bourgueil, but it wasn't as slick and lush as a Bordeaux style blend. The 08 Reserve needs some time to come into its' own as it was obviously quite primary and hiding its' structure behind almost jammy smoky berries. A bit on the pricey side at around $30 (you can get two bottles of awesome Chinon for that price), but worth it once or twice for the unique expression of the grape. Id' like to see what it ages like. 

The last wines that we tasted were their sparkling wines; specifically the 06 Brut and the 03 Blanc des Noirs. These were okay, with lots of toasty notes. Personally, I think there are some better more interesting values out there in the sparkling wine category. 

For sure, the strength of Hermann Wiemer are their Rieslings and Cab Franc...definitely worth checking out if you get a chance to go there. I would say that it's worth a trip. I'm glad that we went--it was a fun day.

Saint Cosme Cotes du Rhone 2009

Picked this up for $13. 100% Syrah. I've had the last several vintages of this wine, most recently the 08. The 08 is a way different wine than this one. Where the 08 exudes pepper, cherries and acidity from the colder growing season, this wine is all about dark fruits and tar, and is obviously more serious. Violets, blueberry (side note--plum/blackberry + violets = blueberry...or at least that's what it seems like to me...), tar, smoke, and just a hint of pepper. Chewy, ripe, balanced and well put together. Obviously from another planet compared to last nights Cotes du Rhone. A-/A

Wednesday, January 5, 2011

Terroirs du Rhone Cotes du Rhone Famille Verniaud-Bernard 2007

I picked this up for around $7 at Costco. I'm always on the look out for cheap Cotes du Rhone. Imported by International Vineyards/Return to Terroir, who I've never heard of before. This one seems to be a bit more modern than my favorite cheap Cotes du Rhone--the Perrin...or perhaps it's just 2007. Anyways, 70% Grenache, 30% Syrah. Seems to be much more on the Syrah side of things to me, with the almost dusty, plum, blueberry, lavender, chocolate, and just the tiniest hint of pepper. Some nice blueberry, licorice and chocolate flavors on the finish. This comes across as a little bit disjointed--I think that it's missing some acidity to balance out the moderate tannins. Solid for $7. B-

Tuesday, January 4, 2011

Souverain Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2007

You can pick this up for about $15; I got this as a git from a vendor. Not something that I would normally buy myself...California Cabernet isn't exactly my thing, you know. This is from Alexander Valley, so much more likely for me to like it than Napa I think. Who am I kidding though? I haven't had a lot of California Cab's recently, so maybe my perceptions are completely screwed up and dated at this point. Anyways, I was expecting this to suck pretty hard, but it didn't. Cherries, dark fruits, chocolate, baking spices (cinnamon), and a little toast. Moderately tannic, with a fruity, vanilla tinged finish. Doesn't have as much snap as I like, but really, this is pretty good compared to the rest of the $15 California Cabs that I've had. let's be honest though: you can get a lot more for 15$ from Chile in the Cabernet department though...the Haras that I had a couple of months ago is way better than this wine. B- 

Just curious: is there a sub-$15 California Cabernet that drinks as well as the Haras? Suggestions and samples welcome. 

Monday, January 3, 2011

Arneis Damilano 2008

Sarah and I had this at Lento in Rochester on New Year's eve. I was kind of surprised by Rochester this time around--there are some really cool places there, even if it's freezing. Anyways, $34 off the list, which is completely reasonable as it retails for around $15. Seems like Lento charges more for their food (which makes sense!) than other restaurants and marks up booze less. My duck was $35! That's easily an LA price...but in Rochester. Besides the duck (which was served with a cherry sauce and gnocchi with porcini and some kind of green), we had duck fat frites, a sardine dish with Israeli cous cous, and pumpkin ravioli coated in brown butter and sage. This wine was lemony, apricoty, floral and crisp, with enough acidity to cut through what was probably 2 days worth of calories in the duck.