Thursday, August 19, 2010

"Trinch!" Bourgueil Catherine et Pierre Breton 2009

It's been a good while since I've had a Cab Franc, and after a couple of spectacularly boring wines this week, I wanted to make sure that I opened something that would be good. This is 16$, imported by Kermit Lynch, and is made by Catherine and Pierre Breton. Grown bio-dynamically (whatever that means...check out this web-site for some interesting insights into Rudolph Steiner if you have some time to kill) as well. Pretty much a slam-dunk for me liking the wine. This wine features lots of Cab Franc-ness, with violets, candied cherries, just a hint a leafiness/tobacco and loads of rocks. Mineral driven finish, backed up by a lot of acidity, and some tannin for good measure. Fresh. Not a really "serious" cab franc in the sense that it is really meant to be delicious young, drunk with food in reckless quantities out of a carafe, and probably not aged. (I think that the plastic cork and the exclamation point in the title probably portend that.) Worth checking out. Slightly cheaper than a lot of Chinon, but not quite as serious either. Maybe a little more pricey than some of the stuff that you get from Bourgueil normally, but then again, this is also Kermit Lynch in combination with some awesome vintners. B/B+


CabFrancoPhile said...

Nice sounding wine. Reminds me my local shop has some 2008 Cuvee Terroir from Joguet. Been a while since I've had young, fresh Loire CF.

Love that BioD website. It's almost too easy to blast holes in Steiner's rantings. But still fun. BioD practitioners are going to have some explaining to do as people begin to understand the insanity of its mythology. In principle I like what they're doing as a different take on sustainable and organic viticulture. But there's no logic in doing every thing a crazy man says. I'd like BioD more if people treated it with scientific skepticism. I think it would turn out there are some very sound ideas, and some that are just plain dumb (albeit fairly harmless).

Jeff said...

I would like to try that Joguet, but none of the places that I go frequently have it.

Feel the same way--I like anything that isn't destructive to the planet per se. But you're right--a lot of bio-dynamic stuff I've heard about sounds like it's straight out of Stonehenge and ripe for picking apart. Which is exactly why I think Bio-Dynamics is a hoax is so well done. It's written by the guy from Smith-Madrone apparently, so I guess he has some skin in the game for the mega-purple crowd, but still. It's hard to dispute that there are some ridiculous things people believe.

CabFrancoPhile said...

The cool part is Stuart Smith is a genuine pre-gentrification Napa vintner. He was up in the mountains carving out a vineyard before it became trendy for all the Viader and Pahlmeyer types to blast apart the hillsides. He plays a role in Conaway's Far Side of Eden as the principled land rights advocate, more or less siding with land owners being allowed to develop their property. He just seems like a man of principle. I have a feeling his wines are pretty traditional.

On a mega purple note, it would be interested if some of the users were outed by an insider. And not just that, but other high end producers getting their wines adjusted. I don't think there's anything wrong in principle with technology adjusting wine, but I'd like to see how far reality is from marketing BS about special terroir, perfect viticulture, magic cellar techniques, etc. Especially in Napa.

Jeff said...

You're right that he sounds like a man of principle. He sounds like someone that would be fun to have a few drinks with. I'm going to seek out some of his stuff, just to have a look.

25$ isn't a bad deal at all to try something outside of my comfort zone. As an aside, how many people can say that Napa Cabernet is out of their comfort zone? Haha.

CabFrancoPhile said...

Yeah, for $25 that's worth a try. The WE note makes it sound really legit, probably even a really good value. Oh well, such is wine pricing. Real mountain wine undeer 14% ABV from Napa is around $30, while basic spoofy valley floor stuff is $60+.