Wednesday, March 10, 2010

Kirkland Signature Columbia Valley Merlot 2008

9$. This is Costco's private label, which they increasingly have been releasing wines under. I've yet to have a Kirkland Signature wine that I thought was a total dud (although I've stayed away from some of them that I figured were more likely to suck--California Pinot, anyone?). Of course, that makes sense, because by some accounts, Costco is the largest seller of wine in the United States. Furthermore, their whole corporate ethos is basically about giving consumers a great deal. Polished, slick and new-world in style, with an oaky nose, thick texture, and notes of cherries, chocolate, tobacco, and vanilla. This wine is exactly what I expect from a new world merlot. Verging on the edge of over-extraction, and a lot of oak. However, there is a lot of fruit and tannnin to balance the whole package. For 9$, I think you could do a whole lot worse. This is real wine, at an attractive price, and although it's not my style, I can't knock it. B- 

4 comments:

Tricerapops said...

kirkland does well when i need to pour for a party and such - the california chardonnay was pleasant and wasn't buttery/fat at all. i remember reading awhile back their strategy with the entire line. i think the signature line is the entry level, and they have reserve bottles which are to be priced higher and consist of grapes from a specific vineyard, but i cannot recall. i think there is even a third tier which is supposedly >$25 as well, and includes grapes from foreign appellations (e.g., Bourdeaux). have you seen any of these?

Jeff said...

Yeah, but I've never tried them. I've seen a few here and there. Surprisingly, their Champagne is pretty great for 20$ (although someone lampooned and guffawed me for that), and their Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand isn't bad either. Port is good too.

CabFrancoPhile said...

Surprised you went for the negociant Merlot at costco! Sounds right for the price, though.

Jeff said...

You know what? It was way better than that Haven's Merlot. If you were to line these two up side by side, I think you'd see the difference in climate between Napa and Washington. Really not that bad, although I'm not really smitten with it.