Friday, January 29, 2010

Bernard Baudry "Le Clos Guillot" Chinon 2007

 
This wine was recommended to me in November by John--the owner of Lang and Reed--who makes a  more modern "Loire-influenced," delicious, Napa Valley Cab Franc. Initially, you couldn't get this wine, except direct from Kermit Lynch, but that changed recently. The "Les Grezeaux," which is from older vines (~60 years of age), but a clay-based terroir, was an absolute knock-out. Of course, it's sold out now. (In a stroke of luck, even though they were sold out online, the last time I was at K&L Hollywood they had one bottle of "Les Grezeaux" that I snatched without a moments hesitation.) "Le Clos Guillot," along with the "La Croix Boisset," are the two flagship wines of Bernard Baudry. "Le Clos Guillot" is a younger vineyard--it was planted in the 90's--but is based on chalky limestone, which is considered a more ideal terroir. There's more info at the Wine Doctor, and let's face it: you should probably check out his site. He actually knows what he's talking about! Anyways...One final note of interest on this particular wine is that it snagged a 92 in the Wine Spectator. The "Les Grezeaux" got a 91. More on this in a bit.
24$ at K&L. Imported by Kermit Lynch (an obvious mark of quality, I think). Lots of raspberry, sour cherry, earth, tobacco, violets, and minerals. I even think there might be a little bit of brett hanging out, becuase for a brief instance, this smelled like wet, earthy manure (and I used to muck horse paddocks when I was 15--my first job). This is a juicy wine--lots of acidity. Great fruit, great finish. Undeniably Chinon. This wine is really good (and it's from a not that great vintage...I can only imagine what an 05 tastes like...I missed that boat though, because I wasn't on the Loire bandwagon yet), and it's going to get better. There is an obvious depth to this wine. Drinking well right now, but I could not help but think that this wine was hiding from me. It seemed as if it had more to reveal. This is in contrast to the "Les Grezeaux," which was a laser beam of sour cherries that, in my opinion, revealed most of itself the night I drank it. Will the "Les Grezeaux" get better? Maybe not, because what I really enjoyed was the clarity and snap of the fruit and that will fade some as it ages. This wine is a different story. It's got something else to reveal in the medium term. At least last night, I did not enjoy "Le Clos Guillot" as much as the "Les Grezeaux," although it is without a doubt, an excellent wine. An absolute steal at 24$. I think that perhaps in a year or two, as this wine unfolds, that it will be a different story...and I will have my one solitary bottle of the "Les Grezeaux" to compare with however many bottles "Le Clos Guillot" I end up buying. So I disagree for now with the Spectator ratings (although it should be noted that a 1 point difference is basically the same rating and useless bullshit), but I'm sure they gave that extra point to the "Le Clos Guillot" because it's more likely to improve with age. I give it an A, vs. the "Les Grezeaux," which I unflinchingly gave an A+. As an aside, I'm going to have to track down the "La Croix Boisset" to continue with my Baudry love fest... 

2 comments:

CabFrancoPhile said...

Nice post! Very tempted to buy this next time I order from K&L. But do I really need another Loire red that will require a few years' age to hit its stride? Probably!

Jeff said...

You can drink this one right now, I just think that it will uncoil a little bit more in a year or two. Right now it isn't as transparent as the "Les Grezeaux."