2007 Briccotondo Barbera Fontanafredda

I had the 06 several times, and I have to say that I liked it more than this vintage. Perhaps this will settle down a bit with a few more months in bottle. The 07 takes quite some time to open up, but has a plummy, chocolately nose with a hint of baking spices. It's got a smooth texture, and a plummy finish. This is definitively new-world barbera. This is not a traditional wine--certainly no bracing acidity and bright cherry flavors. There are old-world elements after the wine opens up; there is acidity in the background that is nicely framed by the chocolate and plum flavors. The wood isn't over-powering, but is used tastefully. I like this wine, but it almost makes me a little sad. It brings up the question of what is good--is it a new world wine made with lots of new oak? Or is it a traditional wine that may have flaws but has more character? I like this wine, and it's a good value for 10$, but I would rather have an old style barbera 9 times out of 10. B